What do dressmakers dream of? Finding the perfect fabric for a new project? Realising that the blouse they have just made fits to perfection? My answer to that question would be a room full of couture, designer dresses and free rein to stand and ponder their beauty, analysing every seam and technique used for as long as I like! That’s exactly what faced me on Friday of last week when I visited the National Museum of Scotland for ‘Beyond the Little Black Dress.’
The exhibition, which runs until 29th October, features over 60 different pieces and reviews the role of the colour black in our clothing from the early 20th century up until the present day. It showcases garments from a wide range of designers from Coco Chanel and Christian Dior to Viktor & Rolf and Maximilian with the suggestion that the Little Black Dress (LBD) is an empty stage for reflections of identity, culture, politics, and everything in between.
In terms of dressmaking there was inspiration aplenty! I think my taste is quite traditional and classic so I absolutely adored the ‘Rebel Royals’ display with dresses by Dior and Norman Hartnell. The structured shapes and beautiful necklines were stunning and I loved the elegant silver beading on the straps of the evening dress designed for HRH Princess Margaret. These types of styles were then contrasted with more contemporary silhouettes and materials such as masses of tulle (think black version of the pink Villanelle dress in Killing Eve), plastic straws, bin bags and even nettles and horsehair from King Charles’ estate!
The traditional method of dressmaking was turned on its head with a display on 3D printed dresses. The exhibition includes several videos to watch and this was the topic for one of them. It was really intriguing to watch the process of making a garment printed within a machine as opposed to sewn with a needle and thread; watching it come to life and then actually drape like a normal dress! Quite amazing!
The colour black was obviously the central theme for the exhibition and the various displays all highlighted the different and sometimes conflicting ways it plays a role. For example in mourning, to demonstrate power, for sensuality but also spirituality and religion, elegance and sophistication and there was a dress on display to represent all of those categories and more. I don’t tend to use black very much in my own sewing but the exhibition did make me consider whether I should experiment more with it going forward and if I do, in what contexts I would wear the clothes. One of the displays actually talked about how the lack of any other colour in a black garment puts the emphasis very much back on the construction of the piece and any special techniques that are used such as pleats and gathers, ruffles or embriodery. Black allows those elements to take centre stage and shine, highlighting the skill of the maker.
Beyond the Little Black Dress offers so many interesting and new perspectives on what is normally thought of as a wardrobe staple for many. It is a feast for the eyes of a dressmaker and anyone who loves their fashion. Although Edinburgh is a six hour round trip for me which I did within a day, I can honestly say it was totally worth it and I am so pleased that I was able to visit before the exhibition closes at the end of October.
If you do visit yourself remember to take some time to see the permanent fashion exhibits in the rest of the National Museum of Scotland. I hadn’t appreciated before I went that there is a whole section of the building dedicated to Art, Design and Fashion which is also great to explore, as is the rest of the museum. I only had time to quickly look round the other floors but I can imagine spending much more time there on another occasion.
It would be wrong of me to finish this blog post without any reference to my own LBD! It was actually one of the first dresses that I made myself over ten years ago and I made it for a specific night out in 2010 where I was dressing up as Audrey Hepburn. I used a New Look pattern (6909) and paired it with black heels, a pearl necklace, a mini tiara and the customary cigarette holder …….and I felt fabulous!
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