I have wanted to make the Rita Blouse from Charm Patterns for so long. I finally bought the pattern in a recent sale and made it up and I’m really pleased I did. It will definitely be one of my go-to patterns that I think I’ll go to time and again.
Rita is a peasant, vintage style blouse which can be worn on or off the shoulder. It has an elasticated neckline, a fitted, princess seamed midriff and the option for either flutter cap sleeves or elasticated ones. It closes with a zip at the side seam. It was designed by the lovely Gertie, owner of Charm Patterns with the Hollywood star, Rita Moreno in mind, hence the name.
Fabric
Gertie recommends lightweight fabrics for Rita such as cotton lawn, sateen, crepe de chine. I have made two Rita blouses now and my first one was made from a lightweight chambray (from https://www.sewmuchtodo.co.uk/ )and my second was made from a black floral viscose (from https://sewoverit.com/). Both worked well and what I really like about the pattern fabric wise, is that it really doesn’t take much at all. Both of my versions were made from scraps left over from other projects. There are only seven pattern pieces and each one is relatively small, so they are easy to squeeze onto smaller bits of fabric.
Fitting
Fit is always the most difficult part of dressmaking in my opinion, but Gertie’s pattern instructions are amazing and include a whole section on how to fit your blouse. Firstly, it tells you how much ease that the pattern was designed to have in certain areas, so you can have that in mind when you decide which size to cut out. It also has lots of detailed advice on how to do that selection, which is so useful and, in my experience, quite rare with pattern instructions.
In addition to that advice, the instructions also have sizing charts which are broken down into the different cup sizes that the pattern includes – another great addition which is often not found with other pattern companies. Most of my measurements fit within the size 6 with my hips fitting into the size 2. I decided to ignore the hip measurement and just go with size six and I was really pleased with the fit. The only thing I would change when I make another version is the length of the bodice. I would probably take about two inches from the midriff panels so that it falls between my waist and hips.
Sewing
Sewing wise, Rita comes together quickly. You can definitely cut it out and sew it up within a day or less depending on how speedy you are with your sewing. The instructions are very clear and easy to follow and are accompanied by great drawings which really help, especially when you need to assemble the lower blouse section. The pattern allows you to practice sewing princess seams, inserting zips, gathering, sewing casings, inserting elastic and more. So it’s a good one for practising these techniques. None of the sewing steps are particularly difficult and I would say it’s a beginner to intermediate level sew.
Style
Most, if not all, of the Charm patterns are vintage in style and the Rita blouse is no exception. However, I would say that its also very similar to several styles I have seen in the shops this summer. I have styled mine with both trousers and one of my Bibi skirts and tucked them in on both occasions and as I mentioned above, the blouse can be worn on or off the shoulder which makes it that bit more versatile. The choice of sleeve is also another style option to consider. I personally think that the flutter style looks beautiful with very light weight fabric like viscose which is light and fluttery! If you are using a slightly heavier weight material, like my chambray version, then I think the elasticated sleeve is better but its all down to personal choice, which as I always say, is the beauty of dressmaking. You can make your blouse exactly how you want it to be and are not restricted by what’s on the rails in the shops!
One other option which is available only on Gertie’s Patreon is a bishop sleeve pattern piece to turn the sleeves into a longer, billowy version. Definitely something I want to try for the cooler months!
In summary, I absolutely love Charm patterns for their instructions alone – the instructions booklet is beautifully laid out and goes into an enormous amount of detail that really supports and holds your hand throughout the process. The Rita blouse definitely met my expectations and is a pattern I’m sure I will go back to in the future.
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