If you have been dressmaking for a while using patterns and feel like you might be ready to start some pattern drafting of your own, I would definitely recommend the ‘Draft and Sew a Shirred Dress’ on the Domestika online learning platform. The course is by Elisalex de Castro Peake from By Hand London and is a great place to start building your pattern drafting skills.
I bought this course some time ago and have only just done it but I’m really pleased with the results. It’s a beginner level course and although I have been sewing clothes for over ten years, I always like to do any courses that catch my eye regardless of the level they are aimed at because I think there is always something new that you can learn. Pattern drafting is something I am trying to do more of and the gorgeous pink gingham dress which Elisalex makes in the course cinched it for me!
The course starts off with an introduction to Elisalex herself and where she gets her inspiration from. It then moves on to the next module which has six short individual videos helping you to prepare for making and drafting your dress. It covers tools and materials, the best type of fabric to use and what not to use! There is a section on designing your dress so you can make it uniquely your own, using a croquis - a sketch of a blank figure which you can draw on top of to design your garment. Then there are videos on some of the sewing techniques that you will need to master to eventually sew up your dress.
The next module has lots of very detailed videos where Elisalex takes you through the procedure of drafting your dress (or top) and then exactly how to sew it together. She is great at explaining things in a clear and concise manner - perfect for a beginner. I found that the process was broken down in a really easy to follow way and it was ideal for doing it step by step over a period of time, as and when you have a spare 30 minutes or an hour to get in some sewing. Or equally you could take a whole day (or more) out and do it in one go. I like that you can work your way through it video by video and really feel that you are achieving something.
Something else that I found useful and interesting was that each module has additional resources at the end with downloadable documents and links to other websites or platforms where you can get further support or motivation to take your new skills to the next level with other projects.
Elisalex has a big focus on sustainability and there is a whole separate module dedicated to caring for your handmade clothes which I thought was great and something that is not often covered.
Although I didn’t use this aspect, there is the opportunity for lots of interaction with the online community of other learners taking the course if you would like to, by sharing your progress and pictures of your final project.
I firstly made a toile out of an old bedsheet and I was pleased to find that it fitted me really well straight away. ((Note to self: practice more pattern drafting to avoid endless alterations and fitting nightmares!!)) In terms of design and style, I’m not quite such a fan of lots of added volume as Elisalex, so for my actual project, I decided to pull back on the fullness of the sleeves and of the skirt so that it was slightly more fitted to my shape in these areas but still retains the same overall look. This was really straightforward to do by reducing the ratios and therefore measurements of those pattern pieces. That is the beauty of making your own pattern – its 100% down to you to design the garment in the way that works best for you and your body shape and I love that.
For my final project I used some fabric that I won in a competition I entered on www.minerva.com - a pretty green cotton sateen which is one of their own fabrics. It was perfect for this dress, drapes in a lovely way and took the shirring well.
I genuinely love the dress I made on this course. It has an elasticated neckline so can be worn off or on the shoulder, a shirred waist, elasticated cuffs, a tiered skirt and feels quite ‘on trend’ for this summer. I also know that I could make another version with longer sleeves for the transition to Autumn. I found the Domestika platform itself really user friendly and the course only cost around £10 which is amazing value for what you receive. Its given me lots of inspiration to continue pattern drafting and the confidence to know that when you draft something from scratch based on your own measurements, it’s definitely going to fit!
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