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How to Sew a Seam

Writer's picture: Amy BuddAmy Budd

Now that we have wound our bobbin and threaded our needle, we are ready to sew a seam!

This is actually more straightforward than you might think.  Just follow the steps below and you’ll have done it in no time.


1.      A seam consists of two separate pieces of fabric that are sewn together.  Place your two pieces of fabric right sides together, aligning the raw edges so that they sit exactly on top of each other.  The right side of the fabric is the side that will be facing the outside world if you are making a garment or if you are making a cushion, for example, it will be the side that you can see on the outside.  In other words, the ‘good’ side of the material.  So good sides of the material should be facing each other.



Two pieces of fabric placed right sides together ready to sew on a pink cutting mat

 

2.      Pin the raw edges of the seam to hold them in place whilst going through the sewing machine.  I usually pin approximately 1.5 to 2 inches apart and at right angles to the seam, as per the picture.   Or you can pin parallel to the seam, within the seam allowance, if that’s easier for you.  If you do it that way, the pin heads should be facing downwards so that they are easier to pull out as you sew.

 


Two pieces of fabric pinned together on the right hand side on a pink cutting mat

3.      Turn on your sewing machine and place the fabric pieces under the presser foot. Check the pattern instructions that you are using to see what seam allowance the pattern is drafted with.  If it’s a dressmaking pattern, the usual seam allowance is 5/8ths of an inch.  Move your fabric until the raw edges of the fabric are aligned with the 5/8ths marking on the needle bed.

 


Fabric under the presser foot of a sewing machine

4.      Lower the presser foot

 


Fabric under a lowered presser foot of a sewing machine

5.      Lower the needle into the fabric approximately a quarter of an inch in from the top of the fabric.



Fabric under a presser foot of a sewing machine with the needle lowered

 

6.      Using the back button or lever on your machine, sew two or three reverse stitches.  This is so that your seam doesn’t unravel

 

7.      Then sew forward until you get to approximately a quarter of an inch from the end of the seam.  Use your hands to gently guide the fabric through the machine, keeping your eye on the seam allowance marking to ensure that you are keeping to a consistent seam allowance all the way along your seam. Don't look at the needle.



Sewing a seam on a sewing machine

 

8.      Using your reverse button or lever, sew two or three back stitches and then sew off the end of your fabric pieces

 

9.      If you have an automatic cutter button on your machine – press it now to cut your threads.  If not, raise the presser foot and pull the fabric out to the left of the machine and pull both threads round to the manual thread cutter on the side of your machine to cut your threads. 

 

10.  Finally take your fabric over to the ironing board and either press your seam open or to the side.  Open means opening up the two edges of fabric and placing the tip of your iron between the two so that they sit open and flat against each side of the fabric.  To the sides, means pressing both raw edges either over to the right or the left.  Your pattern instructions will usually tell you which way to do it. And you’re done! 


An example of a seam pressed open on a pink cutting mat
A seam pressed open

An example of a seam pressed to the side on a pink cutting mat
A seam pressed to the side

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