When I first started making my own clothes, I used the first pins that came to hand and to be honest, that was fine for a long time. However, as time went on, I came to realise that not all dressmaking pins are equal and there are lots of different variations out there which are designed for very specific purposes.
In this post I will outline:
How pins are used in dressmaking
What I think are the 9 main pins that are useful for dressmaking
The various parts of pins that make the difference
What you need to consider when selecting which pins to use
Pins are an essential item in your sewing toolkit and are used to:
Hold your pattern to your fabric
Keep your fabric in a consistent position whist you use your scissors to cut it out
Mark and hold certain features on the pattern pieces such as darts and pleats
Hold trims and embellishments in place while you sew them to the main fabric
Assist with fitting a garment to your body before its properly sewn together
Hold two pieces of fabric together whilst they go through the sewing machine
1 – Dressmakers Pins – these are standard, general purpose pins for dressmaking. They have a flat head and come in various lengths and thicknesses. One of the disadvantages of this type of pin is that due to the small, unobtrusive flat head, it is easy to ‘lose’ them in thicker fabrics.
2 – Round Headed Pins – these pins usually have a brightly coloured head which is either made of plastic or glass. I would recommend using glass head pins because they do not melt if you iron over them, unlike their plastic equivalent. Their main advantage is that they are more visible than basic dressmaking pins, so they are less likely to blend into your fabric and more easily spotted if you drop them on the floor!
3 – Ball point Pins – this type of pin is specifically designed to be used with knit fabrics. The point of the pin is rounded so its less sharp than other types of pins and therefore stops the knit fabric fibres from tearing whilst you are pinning.
4 – Silk Pins – this sort of pin is used for very light weight and fine fabrics. They are very sharp and so glide easily through the fabric preventing any snagging or pulling. They also leave no mark when taken out.
5 – Bridal and lace pins – These are very similar to the standard dressmaking pin and have a flat head. They are usually rust proof so do not leave a mark if left in fabric over a period of time.
6 – Fork pins – I discovered these a few years back and absolutely love them for matching seams. They have two prongs meaning that you can use one pin to catch both sides of a seam allowing for extremely accurate seam matching.
7 – Easy grasp pins – If you struggle to grab a normal dressmaking pin, these will be really useful for you. They have a plastic handle which makes them easy to hold, insert into fabric and remove.
8 – Applique pins – If you are using fabric trims and appliques to embellish your clothes, then you should get some of these pins. They are much shorter than other pins and are perfect for holding your appliques in place whilst you decide on your design and sew it to your fabric.
9 – Safety Pins – Although not a pin you would immediately think of for dressmaking, safety pins do have a role! I use them for helping to thread elastic through a channel for a waistband for example and also they come in handy for fitting. If you are doing a ‘pin fit’ of your garment before sewing it together, try using safety pins instead of normal pins as it saves on getting stabbed as you take the garment on and off!
The key parts of a pin that make a difference are:
The head
The point
The type of metal
The thickness
So in summary, what do you need to consider when selecting which dressmaking pins to use?
What type and weight of fabric will you be using? Generally speaking you should use fine pins for delicate fabrics and thicker, more ‘visible’ pins for thicker fabrics
Are you using a woven or a knit fabric? Use ballpoint pins for knits
Will you want to iron over your pins? If so, make sure you are using glass-head pins
How long will your pins be in the fabric? If you will be leaving them in for a period of time, then make sure they are rust free
Will you have visible intersecting seams on your garment? If so, consider using fork pins
Are you planning to pin fit your garment? If yes, try safety pins
Ultimately most pins will do the same job to some extent but using the right pin for your particular project will get you on the way to a much more professional finish!
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